Before we enter Jerusalem, which is the capital of Judea, the central point of the Holy Land and the most important city in Jewish history and Biblical Salvation History, let us get a glimpse of some other places which lie close to Jerusalem and are also important to Salvation History. And then the focal point of our pilgrimage will be Jerusalem. We shall see its history right from the beginning, its importance in the Bible and the reasons why it became the centre of Salvation History.

The places in the vicinity of Jerusalem which we intend to visit are Bethlehem, Hebron, Bethania and Ein Karim. Today's pilgrimage is to the town of Bethlehem. Bethlehem lies about 7 kilometres to the south of Jerusalem. It is a town sanctified by the birth of Jesus, the Incarnate Son of God; the place where the divine Body of the Son of God first touched the earth and sanctified it.

It was Bethlehem of Judea that God chose for his Incarnation. It is a small, beautiful town, 780 metres above sea level, situated in an area dotted with hillocks and surrounded by vast stretches of fields. Even today we can see flocks of sheep grazing and shepherds tending them. It is known as "Bethlehem of Judea" because there is another Bethlehem in the land of Galilee in the north of Palestine. This town was given to the tribe of Zebulon and lies on the north west of Nazareth. In order to distinguish between the two, the town where Jesus was born is known as "Bethlehem of Judea".

The meaning of the Hebrew word "Bethlehem" is "the house of bread". Perhaps the name was derived from its agricultural topography and from its numerous fields that produce bread. In olden days it was also known as Ephratha. We read in the Old Testament about Ephratha that is Bethlehem( cf Gen 5: 19; 48- 7).

Bethlehem first appears in the Salvation History of the Bible, in connection with the death of Rachel. Jacob returned from Mesopotamia with his wives, children, slaves, flocks and herds, and all his wealth and reached the north of the land of Canaan. He proceeded south and as he approached Bethlehem, his wife Rachel suffered labour pains. Jacob named the son born to Rachel, Benjamin. Rachel died in childbirth and Jacob buried her there. We read in Gen 35: 19- 22, "Rachel died, and she was buried on the way to Ephratha (that is , Bethlehem), and Jacob set up a pillar at her grave; it is the pillar of Rachel's tomb, which is there to this day". On the way from Jerusalem to Bethlehem, there stands Rachel's tomb on the roadside within the reach of Bethlehem. The tomb lies inside the memorial tower with its domes. There is a constant stream of Jewish visitors, particularly women, who come to pray at this tomb. Pregnant women believe that visiting this shrine and praying there will ensure a safe delivery.

The road that goes south from Jerusalem branches into two at this tomb. One leads to the town of Bethlehem. The other to the town of Hebron, where lie, in eternal rest, the remains of all the patriarchs and matriarchs.

Let us now step into Bethlehem. As we enter in, what comes to the mind of every pilgrim is the heavenly message given to the shepherds on the first Christmas night. "To you is born this day in the city of David a Saviour, who is the Messiah, the Lord". Every heart beats rapidly with a sense of exultation that he is privileged to visit and pray at the very spot where his Saviour was born. The sight of the town of Bethlehem, emanating serenity and beauty, bestowing the blessings of peace and joy to all men of goodwill, makes the heart leap for joy.

Just as Bethlehem is associated with the death of Rachel in the Old Testament, it is also connected with the great King David through the genealogy of Ruth. We read about this in chapters 2- 4 in the Book of Ruth. The rich man Boaz from Bethlehem, was pleased with the widow Ruth who had gone to glean in his field, and married her. Their son was Obed. From Obed came Jesse and from Jesse came David (cf Ruth4: 13- 17). Thus the importance and greatness of Bethlehem town were enhanced because it was David's home town.

Now we shall view Bethlehem in connection with the history of the great King David.

The story of David, the Bethlemite, begins in 1Samuel, Chapter 16. In 1 Sam 17: 12 we have, "Now David was the son of an Ephrathite of Bethlehem in Judah, named Jesse".

When Saul, chosen by God as the first king of Israel and anointed by the prophet Samuel, disobeyed God's commandments (cf 1 Sam15: 22), God rejected him (cf 1 Sam 16: 1). Then God commanded Samuel, "Fill your horn with oil and set out; I will send you to Jesse the Bethlehemite, for I have provided for myself a king among his sons". Accordingly, Samuel went to Bethlehem and anointed David, the youngest of Jesse's sons, as king as God directed him to do. Thus Bethlehem was honoured as the town of the great king David. Against the background of this glory and importance, prophet Micah speaks of the coming Saviour in 5: 2. "But you, O Bethlehem of Ephrathah, who are one of the little clans of Judah, from you shall come forth for me one who is to rule in Israel". The birth of Jesus in Bethlehem was a fulfillment of this prophecy. The wise men from the East reached Jerusalem inquiring where the child, born king of the Jews, was. On hearing this, King Herod was frightened. Calling together the chief priests and scribes, he inquired of them where the Messiah was to be born. They told him, "In Bethlehem of Judea", because they knew the reference in the prophecy of Micah( Mt 2: 1- 6).

The glory of Bethlehem reached its zenith with the birth of Jesus. Bethlehem, that is, the birthplace of Jesus- the holy place which God chose for his birth when he entered human history in the form of man. Having become the venue of the Incarnation,the glory, sanctity and majesty of Bethlehem has risen to its peak. It still stands in eternal glory.

Let us enter Bethlehem town and first visit the birthplace of Jesus. The cave, which enshrines the stable and the manger where Jesus was born, is preserved with great reverence. Enclosing this cave, is built the most important Church called the Church of the Nativity. It is built in a manner that precludes any risk of destruction. This is the most ancient church in the Holy Land. It adorns the heart of the town of Bethlehem, and stands rearing its head high, bestowing on all the world the peace and salvation obtained through the Incarnation, now and always and, particularly, at Christmas every year.

This Church has a very ancient history. The cave where Jesus was born was considered as very sacred by the early Christians right from the beginning of the Christian era. It was Emperor Constantine who, in326 AD, first built a church enclosing the sacred cave. During the revolt of the Samaritans, this church was destroyed. Later, Emperor Justinian reconstructed it. Though, subsequently, a few alterations were made, it is the church built by Justinian that still stands there. The Basilica is somewhat in the form of a cross. Right in the middle, underground, is the cave where Jesus was born. As we enter the Basilica we are invaded by its rich heritage and splendour. The four rows of columns of red bricks, the frescoes on the walls, the carvings on the wooden frames of the Basilica - these have retained their beauty and magnificence till today.

We can descend into the cave by either of the two sides of the main altar at the centre of the Basilica. In this cave, which is 12 ms long, 3ms wide and 3 ms high, at the spot where Jesus was born there is embossed a most beautiful silver star. Inscribed in it are the words, "Hic De Maria Virgine Jesus Christus Natus est". The meaning of this Latin inscription is, "Jesus Christ was born here of the Virgin Mary". In the central portion of this silver star, we can see the rock- like flooring of the cave. All the pilgrims, with hearts overcome with emotion, fall on their knees and are soon lost in prayer. They kiss the hallowed spot of Christ's birth and entreat God's blessings on the devotional articles they place on it.

The divine ecstasy one experiences when one falls in reverence before the spot where the infant Jesus' blessed Body first rested on the ground, is beyond description. There is an altar created above this place of the holy birth of Jesus. This spot and the altar are under the jurisdiction of the Greek Orthodox church. Catholics, therefore, are not permitted to offer Mass here. But, close to the birthplace, there is the manger. In Luke 2: 4- 7, we read Mary "wrapped him in bands of cloth, and laid him in a manger". This must have been the spot where the cattle were fed daily.

Mary and Joseph must have preferred to wrap the child in swaddling cloth and lay him in the manger to shield him from the chill of the stone floor. This manger and the altar adjacent to it are in the custody of the Latin Catholics. At this altar Catholics can offer Mass. It is constructed to honour the memory of the three wise men who came from the East to adore the divine Infant (cf Mt 2: 1- 11).

If we walk along the corridor on one side of the cave, we enter an adjacent cave. There are chapels constructed on either side of this cave. One of these chapels is dedicated to St Joseph to keep alive the memory of the angel's message to flee Egypt with the Child and his mother.

The other chapel commemorates the memory of the infants slaughtered at the command of Herod. This cave was St Jerome's favourite haunt while he was translating the Holy Bible from Hebrew to Greek. He reached Bethlehem in 386 AD and stayed in this cave in solitude, praying and fasting. In 420 AD he breathed his last in this very cave and was interred in a tomb he himself had cut out in the rock. Later his remains were transferred to Rome.

The Church of the Nativity built over the cave where Jesus was born, is in the common possession of the Greek Orthodox Church, Armenians and Latin Catholics. Attached to this Basilica, is the Church of St Catherine built by the Franciscan monks. It is in this church that Christmas Mass is celebrated every year. These Christmas celebrations are conducted with the Patriarch of Jerusalem as the chief celebrant, in the presence of pilgrims from different parts of the world, and a great number of invited dignitaries. After the celebration of the Solemn High Mass, the Patriarch moves towards the cave were Jesus was born, with the exceedingly beautiful statue of the Divine Infant in his hands. The throngs of pilgrims accompany him in a procession. When the Patriarch places the statue of the Infant Jesus in the cave, to every one present, Christmas becomes a living experience. These Christmas celebrations can be viewed on TV the world over.

About 200 metres away from the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem, there is another centre of attraction for the pilgrims. It is named the "Milk Grotto". The inner walls of this Grotto are made of pure white, soft stone. Just a touch is enough, white powder, like that of milk, will stick to your fingers. Behind the construction of this grotto and its characteristics, is an interesting legend, connected with the Blessed Virgin Mary. Here it goes: Mary came here to pray on the eve of her departure for Egypt. During the flight to Egypt she stayed here in this grotto for some time. The legend says that Mary suckled the Baby Jesus while resting in this grotto and a few drops of her breast- milk fell to the ground. Eventually they turned into milk- white rocks which formed them selves into the shape of a grotto. However it may be, nursing mothers who suffer from breast- milk deficiency and other associated ailments, come to this grotto to pray and are healed of their maladies. Such is their strong belief. This grotto serves as a chapel and is under the management of the Franciscan monks.

Another favourite spot of interest is the field and cave of the shepherds. This was the haunt of the shepherds along with their flocks the night Jesus was born. It was customary for the shepherds to gather their flocks together when dusk fell, and confine them within the caves. They would then light a fire at the entrance of the cave and remain there to keep watch over the sheep. It was to such shepherds, who were keeping the nightwatch, that the angels gave the message of the birth of Jesus. While we visit this place and the caves and read the relevant passage from the Gospel of St Luke, and meditate on it, we have the experience of hearing the very same good news reverberating in the atmosphere around us. "'Do not be afraid; for see- I am bringing you good news of great joy for all the people: to you is born this day in the city of David a Saviour, who is the Messiah, the Lord. This will be a sign for you : you will find a child wrapped in bands of cloth and lying in a manger. ' And suddenly there was with the angel a multitude of the heavenly host, praising God and saying, 'Glory to God in the highest heaven, and on earth peace among those whom he favours'" (Lk 2: 10- 14).

Every pilgrim leaves the sacred town of Bethlehem with an exultant heart as if he had heard the good news of the Saviour's birth at first hand and with rejoicing in his mind and heart.
 
 
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